Brandade (salt cod spread)
Salt cod has a depth of flavour like no other fish. For the headiest hit, I like to make brandade entirely with fish, though a little mashed potato is another way to go. Failing salt cod, you can make a fine faux brandade with undyed smoked haddock. This spread can be made a few days in advance, chilled and reheated. To serve, gently warm in a small saucepan; if it seems very stiff, add a drop of milk.
‘Entertaining in a way that is as relaxing for the host as it is for the guests is a challenge’, says food writer Annie Bell. ‘I like to have a beautiful spread of dishes on the table for everyone to help themselves. The best spreads play to a particular palette, and it is hard to think of a more alluring one come summer than the flavours and aromas of Provence, Many of these dishes can be eaten at room temperature, avoiding last-minute juggling of pans.’
This recipe featured in our July 2023 issue. See all the best easy fish recipes from the House & Garden archive.
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Recipe information
Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
For the salt cod
For the croutons
To Serve
Preparation
Methods
Step 1
Soak the cod in advance for 24-36 hours. To do this, rinse off the salt from the surface, then place it in a large bowl, cutting it in half if necessary. Cover with water and refrigerate. Replace the water several times as it soaks.
Step 2
When ready to cook, put 400ml water, the bay leaf and the garlic in a medium pan with a lid, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain the fish and add to the pan. Bring back to a simmer, cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for 8 minutes, or until the fish flakes.
Step 3
Drain, reserving the garlic but discarding the bay leaf. Remove the skin if unskinned and flake the fish into the bowl of a food processor, discarding any bones. Add the garlic and a quarter of the cod skin (if you have it) to give the brandade extra body. Add the olive oil and the crème fraîche or raw cream, and season with some freshly ground black pepper and the cayenne. Blitz until you have a creamy textured purée, then taste and add a little salt if necessary.
Step 4
To make croutons, heat the oven to 200°C/fan oven 180°C/ mark 6. Cut the bread into 18 slices about 5mm thick. Lay on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes to dry out. Brush with olive oil on either side and return to the oven for 10-12 minutes until golden; you may need to remove individual ones as they are ready. Leave to cool before serving with the brandade. These can be made in advance and stored in an airtight container.
Step 5
Dust the brandade with cayenne and serve with the croutons, cornichons, olives and lemon as an hors d’oeuvre.
