The magic of legendary collector Christopher Gibbs' home in Tangier
Decorating, for me, is the coalescence of things chosen for a special reason; that might be their profound beauty, oddity, rarity, ugliness, splendour of execution, whimsy or wit. Sometimes one puts things together just because one wants to get people wondering what those objects are doing there. Reams have been written describing the extraordinary things that Christopher Gibbs collected, and sitting here looking at this new book, with images of the various places in Morocco Christopher called home, I suppose the same thing interests me that I first felt on seeing his house in Tangier. Christopher had an eye that was never exhausting or exhausted.
I first met Christopher on a plane to Tangier and was quickly pressed to come to church. The quiet calm of an ancient temple is something I've never been able to resist, but dragging myself out of bed on a Sunday after a festive evening was perhaps something I was not especially inclined to do in my twenties, and I was also put off by rather comic memories of expatriate congregations from my childhood in Singapore. But Christopher had the great skill of suggesting things in a way that made it almost impossible to refuse without feeling surly. He invited you to enjoy something you might not have otherwise normally have considered, and in doing so you found an unexpected pleasure. St Andrew's in Tangier is where Christopher is now buried. I think its mix of perfectly correct Church of England Englishness, enlivened by a catalogue raisonné of Islamic decorative arts, couldn't be more fitting for him.
For me the magic of a place is created by those things that come to rest together almost by accident. If you love the things you have chosen to bring around you, it's unlikely that a room will fall short. Things speaking to other things, harmony and dissonance created by juxtaposition – the music of the eye isn't unlike that of the ear. It needs cadence, variation, contrast. Hitting only the trumpets can be something of a trial for your audience! The best parties are often made by an unexpected mix, and Gibbs himself described his interiors as a sort of merry muddle.
Well before the modern influx of expats, Christopher had a house in the Ourika valley. It disappeared in the way that things sometimes do in Morocco, and I never saw it except in these pictures here, but I was intrigued by the simplicity and earth-touching quality of it. It had a simplicity to it in the way it expressed Christopher's love of the Maghreb and its arts, but it was elaborated by careful consideration of how one material met another, how a textile laid on a floor looked just so, how the light entered the space, and was in turn restricted from entering. A building of this sort, both new and atavistic, is something of a magician's trick – on first sight it seemed to be one thing, but looking more closely it revealed other layers, and it can be a great joy to get to know an interior like that.
Christopher later shared another sort of house in Tangier with his great friend Peter Hinwood. It was a rambling sort of house, part of which once belonged to the painters James and Marguerite McBey, arranged over a garden, with little courts of washing, drying and woodsmoke. Irises were jovially corralled in simple beds, looking like a Mughal carpet come to life at Easter, and daturas dripped with flowers in all stages from promise to decadence. It was the garden of a painter and a lover of paintings, recalling the bosky sort of paradise described in the Old Testament and much loved by Islamic artists as a metaphor for heaven.
Tangier sits at the centre of a complex web of memories and ideas, fact and fiction, ancient and modern. The Phoenicians who stopped here and left their tombs high on the cliffs 26 or so centuries ago, trading all the way from Sidon and Tyre to Cornwall. The long sojourn of the Almoravids and their successors in Andalusia, which ended in a scramble for safety back over the mouth of the Mediterranean, bringing many artisans with them along with those who wished to live a life of tolerance rather than religious submission. The Jews who fled persecution in Europe in the middle parts of the 20th century. Writers and painters and a fair few more déshabillé characters. The place itself was a merry muddle that became an apt setting for Christopher's collections. Among his many and varied possessions was a trunk that supposedly came to England containing items from the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese wife of Charles II. Tangier, as it happens, was also part of her dowry and so the long line of chance by which this object survived became a circle, seemingly perfectly turned out like a hand of cards.
Living in another land can be a simple expatriate experience, but at its best it can be a generator and sustainer of ideas. While you might imagine that those who come to Morocco are in some measure driven by orientalising tendencies, Christopher for me wasn't one of those sorts. He had Moroccan friends and clearly loved the place that had become a home over several decades. He participated in the sort of cultural exchange that comes from offering what you have and exchanging it for what others are willing to offer. If you have an interest in Cretan archaeology, or Trecento painting, or the embroidery of the Greek islands, then the arts of the Islamic world are an integral part of what you love, with Mediterranean trade as the mechanism of exchange. Ideas of utility and beauty are transferred from one place to the next as much by needles stitching quietly at home, appreciating the work of others separated by space and time, as by the grandeur of palatial architecture.
Collecting has its rather more academic parts – surveying, organising, and cataloguing – but there is also the thrill of it, hunting down and acquiring that thing that especially speaks to the strange personal mixture of experience and memory that makes up desire. If you go too hard on either, collecting can become a bit heavy going, but these images are testament to a form of collecting that was a rare mixture of both. A love of things beautiful made in the past, with just enough rubbed out to give them the look of having survived a few all night parties. Christopher himself perhaps summed it up best: “Know to be useful, believe to be beautiful, Morris’s credo is mine too, but I’ve always been catholic in my enthusiasms, softened the noble and splendid with the modest and humble, grandeur with simplicity, richness with poverty. Thus in all these rooms will be found things of every age, from far and wide, making fresh conjunctions, new music.”