The image of blue and white cave houses in Oia, hanging above the sea like a constellation along the lunar, maroon coloured rock face has become an emblem of the Greek islands. But as the tale goes with such discoveries of beauty, overcrowding and overdevelopment has become an uncomfortable reality on several parts of Santorini.
At just 76 square kilometres and with a local population of about 15,000, Santorini receives two million visitors a year and has over a thousand hotels, with a handful of openings each year. Luckily, however, most visitors chase the postcard views of Oia and pay the painful price of staying there, leaving the rest of the island unspoilt.
Though Greece has countless islands and areas on the mainland that rival the beauty of Santorini, this bucket list destination is a must see – a kind of Disney World of sorts, much like entering a spectacle rather than a low-key island hideout. Its choice of excellent hotels add to its magic – from cave houses to stays in vineyards and beach resorts.
Here are our do’s and don’ts for seeing the authentic side of Santorini beyond the tourist traps.
Getting around
While there’s an efficient bus schedule in the summer, their routes don’t allow for off-piste visits to some of the most charming villages, beautiful views and empty beaches. Most don’t think about renting a car, which even in high summer leaves the roads pretty quiet and easy to navigate. Plus, you won't have to be one of a few hundred queuing under the scorching sun for the next bus, or cut your visit short because you’re bound to a schedule.
Where to stay
If you must be close to Oia, then stay in Finkia or Imerovigli, the village just below and within walking distance. The accommodation is more affordable yet there are plenty of five-stars, and the crowds are slightly thinner. From this vantage point, you have a better view of the caldera, Skaros Rock and Oia and the neighbouring islands of Thoros and Thilasia. The main beach strip is Perivolos in the south lined with hotels and slightly hideous beach bars and tavernas, but there are a few gems between them. If you’re not fixated with being by the seaside, inland villages such as Pyrgos and Emporio have charming B&Bs surrounded by vineyards as well as villas and apartments to live more like a local. Plus, you’re within easy access of wine tastings.
Things to do in Santorini
Do walk the iconic route from Fira to Oia along the caldera, or at least a section of it (the full walk is over two hours). Watch the sunset at Akrotiri Lighthouse on the southernmost tip, from which you get a view over the island on one side and the open sea to the other. Don’t fall for the overpriced, mediocre restaurants in Oia - the best flavours on the island are inland. Finikia, a 30-minute walk from Oia, is full of charming tavernas. Lefkes is one of the best to try - but be prepared to wait. Take a day trip to the island of Thirasia and walk the dusty, lunar terrain. There’s also a great stony beach called Riva, which has a Blue Flag accreditation.
Where to swim
Don’t expect to swim in calm, clear, turquoise waters like that of Mykonos, Milos, Paros or other neighbours in the Cyclades. The sea can be choppy, and the water black due to the volcanic sands. Santorini is more about the pools than the sea and with good reason. Due to the vernacular cave architecture and small footprints, most hotels will have plunge pools rather than long lap pools, bar a few such as Istoria on Perivolos Beach and Mystique in Oia which are two of the best hotels on the island. If you must get into the sea, the beaches in the south are more sheltered and your best bet - Vlichada or Perivolos.
Villages to visit
Pyrgos and Emporio are the most beautiful, and still free of mass tourism. In white-painted Pyrgos, the former capital, have a drink and snack at Penelope's Ouzeri, and climb to the castle for breathtaking views. On your way, you’ll pass shops selling local goods and crafts – from olive oil to bath products, ceramics and textiles – as well as galleries, small tavernas and gossiping elderly ladies. Emporio is less refined, and just as beautiful for it. Crowned by a Venetian castle, it feels a place actually lived and used by locals unlike the tourist spots that dominate the island. Finikia has a similar more traditional appeal.
Something to consider
If there is anywhere to prioritise spending on a hotel in your holiday budget, it’s here. The cave hotels are truly incredible and worth it. The design of Vora, off a quiet alley just outside Oia, was a painstakingly collaboration between its owner Yannis Bellonias and K-Studio in Athens, who are behind some of the most stylish hotels in Greece. From the choice of stone flooring, bespoke architectural features, furniture and lighting, everything was made especially for the hotel’s five rooms. Yannis’s own cave home, just above, is also available to rent, and features a rooftop pool. Beyond Vora, Santorini is not short of luxury hotels that offer a more traditional approach to five-star - Katikies, Canaves, Andronis and Mystique are your best bet for the all-white aesthetic.
