The tiny town of Lewes punches well above its weight when it comes to culture. Mentioned in the Doomsday book, Lewes' medival roots are still very much present, from the grand limestone and flint castle that stands watch over the town, to the ruins of Lewes Priory. However, it is the years between 1905 and 1930 that attract most visitors to Lewes now, for those were the years the Bloomsbury Group spent there.
The Bloomsbury Group were a coterie of British artists, writers and great thinkers that included Vanessa and Clive Bell, John Maynard Keynes, E. M. Forster, Duncan Grant, Lytton Strachey and Virginia Woolf. Over the first three decades of the 20th-century their works influenced and permeated contemporary literature, politics and art, as well as attitudes towards sexuality and feminism. Exploring the haunts of the Bloomsbury group will form the main basis of our weekend itinerary, so before you book anything, you should check there is availability at both Charleston House and Monk's House. The former was home to Vanessa and Clive Bell, Duncan Grant and Lytton Strachey, and this bohemian corner buzzes with creativity and intrigue still. Monk's House was home to Viriginia Woolf, a real life room of one's own.
Whilst both landmarks are closer to Lewes, we recommend staying in Alfriston, a pretty village just beyond Lewes. The village is just over 9km², making it easy to explore on foot, and is home to a variety of independent shops and pubs. Though the village itself is walkable, you will need a car, as both Charleston and Monk's House are tricky to reach via public transport.
Friday
During my tour of Lewes and Alfriston, I arrived around three in the afternoon so I could check straight into my accommodation. My base was Flint Cottage, a tiny gem of a house with a pretty walled garden and lovely interiors. The bedrooms are papered in floral patterns, an Aga sits in the kitchen, and in the sitting room a wood burning stove lies in wait.
I chose the cottage not just for its looks, but also for its practical location right in the centre of Alfriston, which puts all the village's loveliest sites within easy reach. There are two double bedrooms, but the cottage's maximum occupancy is two people, as its creaky staircase and narrow corridors will demonstrate. However, having two bedrooms mean this is a great retreat for two friends, a couple who prefer to sleep apart, or a pair of family members.
Once I was settled in and ready to explore, I left the house via the back door and headed out of the garden gate. I wandered down the high street, stopping in the vintage and antique shops, many of which are packed with oil paintings and charming furniture, so take your time to root around. If you're lucky, as I was, you might bump into Jaqueline Wilson, a long time local, in one of them. Book worms should make sure to pop into Much Ado Books, which is practically on the door step of Flint Cottage. Here you'll find contemporary fiction, as well as early editions of classics.
With my shopping desires satisfied, I walked down to Alfriston Clergy House, the first property the National Trust ever acquired. Be warned: don't leave your visit to the end of the weekend, as the clergy house is only open on Fridays and Saturdays. Take your time to explore the house, then enjoy the gardens. Beautifully planted, they stretch down to a babbling brook and a field of crops.
I finished my day with dinner at The Star, the Olga Polizzi designed, 15th-century coaching inn that serves up a seasonal menu. Sit by the crackling fire with a spicy margarita or glass of wine and stay there until the evening's end.
Saturday
I wanted to make use of the high specification kitchen, made by David Swift of Period Property Consultancy, before the weekend was out, so settled on making breakfast at home and eating outside in the pretty courtyard garden. Alternatively, there is a bakery directly next door to Flint Cottage, which wasn't open when I was there, but has rave reviews.
My timed ticket for Charleston House was for 10am, which meant leaving Flint Cottage around thirty minutes before. You do need to reserve a slot as the house gets very booked up–especially in the summer and at Christmas. Take your time looking around the rooms and the garden, and ask the attendants questions, they really know their stuff and they make the whole experience much more engrossing.
I had a bite to eat in Charleston's surprisingly well stocked café to replenish my energy reserves before heading to Monk's House, but if the café doesn't take your fancy, the drive between Charleston and Monk's House takes you right through Lewes (it's around twenty minutes), so you can stop off there too. Once you've explored Monk's House, head back to Flint Cottage for some rest and recuperation (may we suggest cracking open a copy of Mrs Dalloway?). For dinner, I recommend Poco, a small Italian restaurant just down the road from Alfriston that serves up freshly made pasta and locally sourced wines. Again, you'll want to book in advance.
Sunday
On Sunday morning, I checked out of Flint Cottage at 10am and headed back to Lewes. This time, my destination was the Charleston in Lewes gallery. First opened in September 2023, the gallery is a dedicated exhibition space for the Bloomsbury group and showcases a number or Bloomsbury, or Bloomsbury adjacent artists. We were lucky enough to catch the Vanessa Bell: A World of Form and Colour exhibition, which charts her journey as a key figure in the art world.
Once I had finished in the gallery, I walked down the high street, popping into some brilliant independent shops, including Closet & Botts, one of our Top 50 Independent Design Shops. Inside, you will find everything from colourful candles to a covetable array of quilted bedspreads, as well as pretty stocking fillers and gifts.
If you're like me, you will have worked up an appetite by then, so pop into Flint Owl Bakery next. A charming spot, the bakery has a walled garden where you can sit and enjoy coffee and a pastry. Alternatively, you can grab everything you'll need for a picnic and save it for the next stop on our itinerary: Cuckmere Haven. Cuckmere Haven is a peaceful pebble beach where the South Downs meet the sea. Dominated by chalk cliffs, the dramatic coastline is well worth a visit and makes for the perfect fresh air ending to the weekend.
Rates at Flint Cottage start at £644 for a long weekend or mid-week break.
